Commuting Reviews
You are looking at: Home : Commuting Reviews

Project Commuter

RCUK's Project Commuter hits the road


Posted: 3 November 2006
by David Arthur

We don't need to go on about how great commuting is (keeps you fit, cheaper than public transport etc), but it's surprising - especially in London - that there's so many different styles of bikes being used by commuters. It's a kaleidoscope of bikes, from ragged old MTBs with once fresh decals pealing off, to brand-new flat-barred road bikes, to the annoying small-wheeled folding bikes that seem to undertake and overtake far too much for our liking.

So, with the onset of winter, we decided to put our nice bikes away for Sunday best, and embark on a project to build the ultimate commuter. OK, not ultimate, but we don't think it's too far off, but we'll let you decide. With a box of bits from Cotic, Ultimate Pursuits, Upgrade, FSA and Mavic, we built Project Commuter.

In previous articles we've looked at a cross-section of the commuter bike market in our Commuting Bike Buyers Guide, and there's plenty of tips in the RCUK Commuter Guide.

Where did we start? The first decision was whether to go singlespeed or geared. It's a tricky one, both have their advantages, but we opted for singlespeed, firstly because I've never ridden a singlespeed for more than a few metres, and riding around London doesn't really require a full host of gears - especially with the specifics of my commute. So singlespeed it was. Frame wise, you're spoilt for choice. There's plenty of small UK brands who will look after you, but some of the bigger companies are starting to jump on the singlespeed commuting bandwagon, so you've got tons of options.

Another reason for going singlespeed is the cost, with the lack of mechs and other expensive components keeping the price down. It'll also mean less maintenance when it gets exceedingly mucky. Some of you might find you have enough bits and bobs scattered around your bike shed/bedroom/kitchen that you might just need a frame to bolt them all onto, this certainly keeps the cost down.

Right, so we've decided what our bike is going to look like, lets take a closer look at the final build, starting from the top, well the centre, with the frame.

Frame

The frame (always a good place to start) is the new Roadrat from more-often-known-for-making-MTBs-company Cotic. Cy Turner wanted a road frame that drew inspiration from his MTBs, something fast and which MTBers would feel at home on. Dogsbody's dropouts make it geared/singlespeed compatible, it'll take 26" or 700c wheels, is disc brake ready, and costs £255. The deep gloss black paintjob is drop dead gorgeous, and not bad considering the price, giving it value beyond its price tag. The discreet decals not only look smart but don't grab a thiefs attention - we hope, we're not actually going to put it to the test by chaining it up outside work...


Oval bars and stem

No fuss with a singlespeed setup

Carbon is a bit over the top

A comfy saddle is a must

Wheels

Going singlespeed

Convert an old frame: Vertical dropouts make chain tensioning a little trickier than the horizontal dropouts on a track or singlespeed specific frame. This can be solved by using a chain tensioner, such as an old rear mech or a DMR Singulator to keep the chain tensioned.

Gear ratios: Track gears are measured in inches, and is the effective diameter of the wheel. Track riders such as Chris Hoy will typically run anything above 90", but for the streets you want something a lot easier to spin.

We opted for Mavic CXP22 black rims built around DMR Revolver singlespeed hubs, laced with double butted black spokes. All suits the black frame very well, don't you think. The rims are 6106 aluminium and semi-profiled, single eyeletted and have a handy wear indicator. The hubs will take a stack of abuse as they're more commonly intended for those used to flinging themselves through the air on bikes which are too small, but they look good and double sealed bearings should last well. The rear is zero-dished for extra strength, and accepts screw-on freewheels or track sprockets.

Rims: £44.95 each. Front hub: £39.95. Rear hub: £44.95.

Tyres

As this bike will be used around the streets of London, a pair of puncture resistant tyres is a must. Vittoria’s Rubino Pro's are a good choice. They’re good value (£14.99 each), they shouldn't puncture that easily thanks to PRB puncture protection, and with 120TPI casing and Kevlar Edura 3D Compound promise good performance too.

Drivetrain

True, the FSA Vigorelli track cranks (£256.99) look the business, but are a overkill for such a bike. They are incredibly stiff and the carbon centre improve the aero performance, though of questionable value riding to work, we hasten to add. We'll be speccing a more down-to-earth crankset in a future update, but for now they're staying on. Attached to the rear hub is an 18t singlespeed freewheel, and connecting the whole setup is a YBN chain. Combined with the 49t chainset we've got a 74" gear.

Brakes

We were going to stick on some disc brakes as they fit perfectly with the low-maintenance ethos behind this bike, but we decided to fit more afforable V-Brakes. These we had lying unused in the office so they went straight on. Lots of power and simple to setup, they're ideal. We upgraded the stock pads with better performing Aztec's.


Wishbone stays with rack mounts

Solid DMR hubs

Vittoria tyres

Cotic's own rigid fork

Contact Points

From the excellent Oval range of components, we picked an M400 flat bar (£32.99) and an R700 stem (£49.95). We decided on a flat bar from the outset as opposed to drop bar setup, purely because for most commuting a flat bar is easier, safer and more comfortable. 2014 T6 aluminium is light, a comfortable width at 580mm (though it may yet get some attention from my junior hacksaw) and a 5 degree bend is just right. It's held in place by a 25.4mm stem of 90mm length . Now this is a little short but it keeps the steering nippy, a longer stem will be going on soon. FSA supplied saddle and seatpost from their K-Force range, both items of the lightweight variety. The saddle has a slim carbon shell, ti rails and minimum padding, weighing just 150g. The carbon post is, like the cranks, overkill on such a bike, but has a handy amount of lay-back. Two bolts make adjustment a breeze, and once broken in the saddle turned out to be comfortable.

How does it ride?

First impressions are very good. For nipping in and out of double deckers and taxis the setup shows it's agility, while it's not adverse to piling on the speed in huge, lovable chunks. We'll be swapping bits over (stem, post and cranks to begin with) to try some other components out, and see what improves the setup further.

Watch our for a more in-depth review soon...


Previous article Previous article:
Team FBUK – Team News
Next article:Next article
Merckx Starts Next Generation Cycling

TwitterStumbleUponFacebookDiggRedditGoogle


Discuss this story


kps
The bikes looking great, but I was wondering about those forks. Are they the right way round? Isn't the disc mount normally on the left and behind the fork? Which would mean the canti/ vee bosses where backwards ala old pace and orange's. Looking at the cotic site would suggest you have them the right way but was just wonderin.
Posted: 03/11/2006 20:20

A winter commuter without mudguards? Not my idea of fun!
Posted: 03/11/2006 20:29


m@
The fork rake would be all wrong if it's the otherway round. Don't see any reason why you cannot put the disc on the right - suppose it keeps all the damageable bits on one side...
Posted: 03/11/2006 20:34


kps
I thought about that too m@ but I think old kona project2' came with no rake...... but double checking the cotic site shows the forks do indeed have a rake. As for damageable bits the other disc mounts on the left. Wonder what it looks like with a disc mounted?

As for mudgaurds it would be heresy on a bike that nice:)
Posted: 03/11/2006 20:45


m@
Well you know what I mean, the angle of the fork itself would be all wrong...
Posted: 03/11/2006 21:13


kps
Yeah when you mentioned the rake I checked and you couldn't fit it the other way.
Posted: 03/11/2006 21:37


m@
Do I mean "offset"? Hmmm, I dunno!
Posted: 03/11/2006 21:47

With the disc mount in front of the fork there is less chance of the wheel comming out under brakeing if the QR is not tight enough. There was a lot of discusion on this among MTB riders a while back. You have to make sure the disc is mounted the correct way round though. ie- spokes facing in direction of rotation.
Posted: 04/11/2006 10:42


m@
I'm an idiot, don't listen to me.
Posted: 04/11/2006 11:10


kps
Ahhhh I see kinda pushing the hub into the dropout rather than out.
Posted: 04/11/2006 11:40

Yeah, I read about some nasty accidents a little while back with front wheels ripped out of the fork under braking...not too clever!

Roadrat looking good though...nice little commuter, but you're right about the CF all over!!
Posted: 05/11/2006 18:16


m@
Well if they'd done their QR up securely and had their tabs on their forks there should be no problem!
Posted: 05/11/2006 18:47

You guys are pretty much there, but there were a couple of reasons for putting the brake tab on the front right.

Firstly, as you rightly point out, this puts the disc brake reaction force into the dropouts instead of out of them. The dropouts are therefore standard rather than custom cut forward facing, so are a bit cheaper which we can pass on to the buying public. They do have 'lawyer' tabs, but this isn't enough. On my prototype the brake mount was in the conventional position, and I had some trouble with axle movement in the dropout. There was no danger of the wheel coming out, but it was enough to make the brake rub, and it's not the most confidence inspiring thing to happen on your bike.

The other reason I did it was because trying to figure out if you could always fit mudguard stays with all the many and varied calipers out there was just such an endlessly tedious pursuit I was losing the will to live, so thought my way out of it!
Posted: 06/11/2006 09:18

Know what you mean about mudguards...bain of my life at the moment. Why can't something just be simple for once!!
Posted: 06/11/2006 09:31

mudguards will have to go on soon, though the weather is being so good at the moment i can just keep putting it off.
Posted: 07/11/2006 09:29

"Wonder what it looks like with a disc mounted?"

http://www.flickr.com/photos/spittingcat/262060062

Front bike is a ROADRAT with Hope Mono Minis on it, rear bike is the Project Commuter with vees.
Posted: 08/11/2006 10:32

Can someone explain this to me:
'Dogsbody's dropouts make it geared/singlespeed compatible, it'll take 26" or 700c wheels'?
If using V-brakes, how does this work? On the front fork I guess use clamp-on rather than brazed mounting posts, but at the rear?

As for mudguards being 'heresy', this is utter buffoonery. A commuter bike (among other reasons) is to save time and hassle on your daily trip. If your shoes and bum are deluged in road water it's going to take you a lot longer getting yourself from bike park to desk (or whatever). And that is just a nuisance.
Posted: 08/11/2006 12:04

It's made a bit clearer on the website;

http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat.html

"Huge tyre clearance. Why not? Big road or cyclo-cross tyres (up to 38c), or even 26" wheels with 1.9 inchers if you're using discs and want to go super comfy."

So if you want to use 26" wheels on the frame you need discs.

Lots of room for mudguards Martin. :^)
Posted: 08/11/2006 12:22

Ah right, I see. I would favour running 26-inch wheels shod with the new Schwalbe Marathon Ultimate, a 2-inch semi-slick folder weighing 595g, yay!
Posted: 08/11/2006 12:36

To be honest Martin, you wouldn't really need to go to 26" wheels for that kind of thing. The bike in the photo Kelvin's link leads to is mine, and those nobbly tyres are 29x1.8" Bontrager XR's, so you'd get 700x46c slicks in the frame no problem at all, so wouldn't necessarily have to go to the expense of discs.
Posted: 08/11/2006 20:53

Aha, the bike's designer speaks out! Yes, it had not occurred to me that disc brakes compromise mudguard use. But V-brakes are pretty good for road use where the abrasion of rims by trail dirt is not an issue.

By the way I see that Schwalbe are going for the big time with this new Marathon Supreme tyre and for 2007 are proposing it in three widths for 700C wheels (or 29s as I see people are pleased to call them): 37mm (460g), 42mm (525g) and 50mm (690g). It looks outstanding for road and soft-road use. All they need now is a UK distribution network.

Why 29ers anyway? Several custom bike builders say they favour 26-inch MTB rims even for road bikes -- they say they are stronger. And Thorn Cycles put their Audax bikes on MTB hubs. Is this what is called 'convergence'?
Posted: 09/11/2006 12:38

V-Brakes are great, but more and more people what discs on the road too and it was relatively easy to provide.

I think 29er tyres are getting more widespread. The 42c's would fit in the RoadRat if you wanted something grippy offroad. As far as I knew Fisher Outdoor do Schwable in the UK.

As for why 29ers, I'm not going near that powderkeg ;-)
Posted: 09/11/2006 12:57

Sorry, no mudguards, no go. For a commute bike, it has to be simple, cheap and easy to repair roadside. Obviously in London, where there are no hills, a single freewheel is OK, but us in the sticks have some 10 % climbs between Birmingham and Coventry. Personally, my commute bike is the same bike as my AUDAX bike. Reliable and multi geared. WITH MUDGUARDS !
Posted: 17/11/2006 17:01

Well, you can always put mudguards on this bike if you like...They've built up a bike here for their commute. I think the statistics on the TfL website say something like less than 10 wet commutes (morning or evening rush hour) in London per annum...at that rate, hardly worth the bother of mudguards really??

I used to use raceblades when I was in London, and you could guarantee that after a few dry weeks, you start thinking, Great, I'll take the guards off, the very next day would see monsoon style downpours...

Sods law eh?!
Posted: 17/11/2006 17:28

mudguards clearly a topic of much debate then ;)

we only didn't put mudguards on because simply we didn't have any when we took the photos. i'm looking to get some though, looking out the window right now, with the rain chucking it down, i think (know) they'd be a really really good idea
Posted: 17/11/2006 17:37

I was out with a couple of chaps recently who had Raceblades on their fixed-wheel bikes. I can see 'blades would work with disc brakes, which plainly are the way to go -- it is stupid to abrade your rims with brake blocks if you can avoid doing so.
Posted: 18/11/2006 10:46

Jim, the RoadRat can use gears and I do (I don't hold with this SS lark). I used to commute across five Derbyshire hills each way when I had the other day job and I certainly loved my 39/26 then!
Posted: 19/11/2006 18:40

Talkback: Project Commuter

First Name:
Last Name:
Nickname:
Email:
Security Image:
Enter the code shown:

I agree to the site's Terms and Conditions & Code of Conduct:


Hot threads