Condor Tempo fixie tested
London is a hotbed of fixed wheel cycling, so London-based Condor should have the right recipe for a tasty bike. We find out...
Keep those fingers away |
Forwards dropouts allow easy wheel removal |
Anniversary logo adds interest |
Carbon bottle cage is same shape as Condor logo... |
Miche a popular fixed crankset |
Condor Tempo £699.99
London-based Condor Cycles has been turning out bikes since the year dot [1948 actually - ed.], and has enjoyed successful sales with its singlespeed/fixed wheel Pista, a familiar sight on the streets of any large city around the UK.
It’s difficult to improve on the already successful Pista, but Condor has managed to expand its range with the Tempo, a bike that is half fixie, half training bike. This might be seen as a bold move by Condor, but look at the Tempo as a cross between the Pista and the Fratello and you can see the sense.
The Tempo’s design owes a lot to both the Pista and Fratello – winner of RCUK’s Winter Bike Grouptest, taking the same frame tubing as the Pista but adding to the mix some of what makes the Fratello such a cracking bike. Triple-butted Dedacciai SAT 14.5 is again used to good effect, being characteristically well finished and neatly welded.
Then we come to the looks. With a deep layer of paint and understated decals, the Tempo not only looks smart but also classy. In fact, Condor’s bikes are all looking particularly good this year.
It’s a promising start then, and continues when you take the bike for the first ride. On the roads, the Tempo is a comfy cruiser. It’s mild-mannered at low speeds, but increase the pace and it develops a sporty character. It’s not flighty like a 16lb race bike, but it delivers a high level of nimbleness in situations that require it.
On poorly surfaced roads the ride is taut but fine, with no undue thudding over potholes or cracks in the road, the frame clearly dissipating much of the road buzz that can lead to discomfort. That’s helped by the 545g Deda Nero Forza 5 carbon fork up front, a good match for the lively frame, providing enough feedback through your hands while still managing to take the edge of any harshness that can occur.
By essentially taking some elements of both the Pista and Fratello, they’ve created a more comfortable bike that’s ideally suited to longer rides and winter training. Rack and mudguard mounts have been added, creating a more versatile bike that opens its use up to more than just flitting around city streets.
The 73.5 degree head and seat angles create a fast yet reassuringly stable handling frame. The headtube has gained an inch over the Pista, now up to 17.5cm, and the chainstays have been lengthened by 2cm, bringing them to 42.5cm, providing extra clearance for mudguards and 28mm tyres. These changes have brought the ride a little closer to that of the Fratello than the Pista. Frame weight is a quoted 1.8kg.
One of the reasons for riding a fixed wheel bike is the lack of components that can go wrong, keeping maintenance to a minimum. The kit was better than expected at this price point, with a mix of Deda and Miche sourced components. Condor have close relationships with these brands and hence many of the components carry Condor’s logo. Some people might find the branding exercise a little over the top, but I think it works.
The ride comfort – even with 23mm tyres - is remarkable. Turn the handlebars and the bike responds with the same pleasing eagerness as the Fratello displayed, with the geometry perfectly poised for stable and planted riding. It’s an enjoyable bike to ride, offering a delightful combination of nimbleness and comfort, and the longer wheelbase helps create a stable platform. The riding position, as with most Condor’s RCUK has tested, is particularly spot on, with the bars falling into just the right spot for the 5’11” tester (following a swap of the 12cm stem for a 13cm item).
The headtube places the bars quite high, but Condor thoughtfully fit enough spacers to allow the height to be adjusted to suit. Condor will happily swap over any parts for a fit or to up-spec the bike, if so desired. If I’m going to be picky, it’s that the brake levers a bit too spongy when pulled hard, but they still provide decent braking performance. The wheels, built around Condor branded hubs, Miche rims and 32 spokes front and rear, offer a smooth ride.
Gear setup is crucial on a fixed wheel bike, and this test bike came with a 46x18 combination, giving a gear of 67 inches, perfect for my daily commute. If that’s too high or low, Condor will happily change the sprocket and chainring.
Compared to the Pista, the Tempo makes for an easier and gentler introduction to fixed wheel riding, should you be reading this with a view to making the leap from gears to no gears. The frame provides enough stiffness for bursts of speed, but the sweet spot is really one of cruising along at a steady tempo and finding smooth lines through the chaos of inner city life.
Verdict
The Tempo offers great value for money, and the standard equipment is better than we might have expected at this price point. The frame provides enough stiffness for bursts of speed, but the sweet spot is really one of cruising along at a steady tempo and finding smooth lines through the chaos of inner city life.
 Ride quality, spec, fit, comfort, finish
 Squidgy brake levers
www.condorcycles.com
Tel: 020 7269 6820
Discuss this story
"Forwards dropouts allow easy wheel removal" yes, nice and easy, sometimes all by itself ~ leaving you in hospital. wtf are condor doing selling a fixie without (rear facing) trackend drop outs ?
Posted: 05/02/2008 21:05
Er, Miles, if your wheel pulls out of the frame it was not tightened enough. The vertical dropouts seen on road bikes today are a relaitvely new invention. Even 25 years ago, those long forward-facing dropouts were the norm on road bikes and proved perfectly reliable even with quick release retention. Personally, I prefer rear-facing track ends for fixed, but only because they are maintain a constant steering geometry and bottom bracket regardless of the wheel's position, which is why they are used on the track.
Posted: 06/02/2008 10:37
hmmm not sure you could pull the wheel out that easily and I can see why they have used forward facing drop outs. Full length mudguards and track style drop outs are not greatly compatable as they can make rear wheel removal a bit of a pain. On my on one il' pompino i've managed to mount full length guards far enough of the back wheel so that with a deflated tyre I can just about squeeze the rear wheel out without having to do anyting to the mudguard, but still maintain the effectiveness of the guard. The Condor solution is probably better though as you can get the mudguards nice and close to the wheel and still be able to get it out easily. PS bit dissapointed not to see the pompino in the fixie buyers guide.
Posted: 06/02/2008 11:51
admitted - the issue of which sort of drop-outs isn't completely straight-forward... 1. risk analysis: chance of occurance of this sort of failure I agree probably low x consequences of this sort of failure potentially catastrophic = IMHO, medium risk. Why run this risk ? 2. In addition to the the potential to pull the wheel out and kill yourself, you cannot use chain pulling "tag-nuts" to tighten the chain; because they're going to be pulling against your locking track nuts - which is the only thing holding your wheel in. This makes it much more difficult to get a good tight chain. 3. Don't snigger at "tag-nuts" ! 4. With track-ends the locking track nuts don't need to be tightened to the point where your knuckles go white - Because you can use tag-nuts to pull the chain tight, and because if they do loosen then nothing terminal will happen to the wheel. This means that you can loosen them by the road side with something other than a workshop sized 15mm spanner. Which is an issue. Particularly if you ever get a flat. Flat + tight track nuts = end of ride, call wife, go home with tail between legs. 5. Fitting gaurds is surely more likely to be a frame issue.?. I should know I made the mistake of getting a specialized langster - which somes with no gaurd clearance or mounting points on forks or rear traingle. Having said all of above I bodged a 1980 motobecane frame into fixie format (with slanting fwd facing drops, the ones in the picture look like 80s era campy drop-outs to me btw) and had no great problems. My point is really that if you're going to buy a fixie specific frame then I think it really should have track ends ! Completely agree that pompino should be included. If, when, I get another fixie frame it will probably be an on-one (after all, how many guys do you see on the track with fwd facing drops just hoping they don't pull the wheel out. Of course its more of a problem if you're producing >1000watts, which of course I do all the time...not!)
Posted: 06/02/2008 18:16
I think you may be missing the point slightly. Not one of the customers who bought a frame last year has had a wheel pull out on them to my knowledge. Mr Hallett has used SKS quick release mounts on his rear mudguard to make removal of the rear wheel easier which is the only way I can see making a "track rear end" work. The point is Miles that this is a ROAD bike and not a Track bike so the requirements need to be different. For instance it's bottom bracket height is neither track nor road, and neither is it's geometry. But it works VERY well. (after all, how many guys do you see on the track with fwd facing drops just hoping they don't pull the wheel out. Of course its more of a problem if you're producing >1000watts, which of course I do all the time...not!)
Posted: 06/02/2008 20:39
okay, I'll bite again on this one... Bianchi Pista, Spec Langster, Surly Steamroller, Fixie Inc, to mention just a few, all have one thing in common .. which is ... rear-facing drops. Now, someone has got this right, and someone has got it wrong. Its not a sit-on-the-fence have it both ways issue. You either have your drops pointing fwd or backwds on a road (not track) fixed specific frame. IMHO, and that of most manufacturers, rear facing drops are the ONLY safe thing to do. Rear-wheel removal is easy btw with backwds facing dropout: you use 'tag-nuts' for chain tension and then you don't need insanely tight track-nuts. Easy to remove wheel. I've done it lots of times. I wish Mr Hallet all the best with his QR mounts + fwd facing drops. However, I would suggest he makes sure his insurance is paid up. If things go wrong he is going to have a horrible accident, no chance of recovery. If he's going at speed at the time he WILL be injured. Imagine spinning down hill at 115rpm and 25mph and your back wheel coming out. Why run the risk ?
Posted: 06/02/2008 21:20
miles j, you missed what I said. For the reasons stated in my post above, but not for reasons of security or safety, I personally prefer track ends and they may be seen on my Roberts fixed as well as my Corrado track bike. My old 1932 Raleigh, which only has wing nuts to secure the double-sided fixed hub, has forward-facing dropouts. They do not constitute a fundamental safety problem and indeed were used for decades by wing-nut equipped professional riders before Tullio Campagnolo came up with the quick release skewer. I am not aware of many instances where a wheel has shifted in track ends because its nuts have not been properly tightened. The orientation of the slots has nothing to do with keeping the wheel in the frame if this happens. The shape of the track end means that the wheel has a more rigid connection with the stays, since the load path of the bite of the track nuts connects directly top and bottom with the stays. Furthermore, the horizontal slot ensures that, if gearing is changed for track racing, the bottom bracket height - vital on steep banking - is not compromised. Turn up at Herne Hill with forward facing dropouts and you will be allowed to race provided the rest of the bike meets the regs. Condor's dropouts are 'fit for purpose'. Kahuczek moment: who invented the forward-facing rear dropout?
Posted: 06/02/2008 22:47
"I am not aware of many instances where a wheel has shifted in track ends because its nuts have not been properly tightened...." Okay, I'll have one last go on this - though I don't think you guys are going to change your minds, and I don't think I'm going to change mine (don't ya just love the futility of online discussions...)
Consider the following: Do you check the play in the chain on your fixed gear bike every time before you go out ?. Yes, you probably do. Why ?. Because if there's any play it can be dangerous. Why would there be play in the chain ?. Well, it could have worn out. Yes it could, if its been a loooong time since you've checked and you've done a lot of miles. Come on now, whats more likely ?. Well, err. How could play in the chain develop ?. Only really one way folks. Your rear axle is slipping forwards. Yikes, is it !. Yes. And if you have fwd facing drop-outs and it keeps slipping, then, ping out comes your wheel and splat off you go to hospital.
Posted: 07/02/2008 18:47
On a proper fixie you run 1/8th" track chain with a perfect chain line really really tight. Not if you want your transmission to last, you don't. Besides, an over-tight chain wastes power. Miles J, stop digging. With every post you tell the forum more about your own personal knowledge and experience of fixed wheel cycling than you might think, and it clearly ain't extensive.
Posted: 08/02/2008 12:40
i have completely failed to get anywhere here havent I !. Yes, obviously, you can ride a fixed wheel with fwd-facing horizontal drops and 3/32" chain. I should know. I did it for a number of years. And no, no great calamity befell me. Which, err, proves nothing really. I liked riding fixed, so I bought a fixed-specific frame. Now, here is the whole point: If you're going to buy a fixed-specific frame I'd say buy one with track ends. For safety, easy of chain tensioning, generally greater strength of the drop-outs & stays with this configuration. So, here is my orginal point: wtf are Condor doing building a fixed-specific frame with fwd-facing horizontal drop ? Lets see who agrees with me ?. Oh, its virtually every single road fixed-gear frame builder in the world. Hey maybe we're all wrong and you guys are right. Sorry, but saying you can do it this way is not good enough. You can ride with solid tyres, but pneumatic inner-tubes are better. You can ride with friction-shifters but IMHO sti/ergo-shifter are better, etc,etc.
Posted: 08/02/2008 18:08
Miles do you understand why THIS bike has been built with the dropouts in this fashion? There are four other fixed wheel bikes which have "covential" fixed wheel dropouts. Most other "builders" only build a fixed wheel bike which is an adaption of a track frame, rather than a specific bicycle designed to be used on the road. It seems that your opion is Fixed, enjoy riding your bike.
Posted: 08/02/2008 19:32
Kahuczek,
Look at: On the efficiency of bicycle chain drives. By Spicer et al., In HUMAN POWER (The Technical Journal of the International Human Powered Vehicle Association), Issue 50, Spring 2000.
(Available here: http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf)
This is an analytic study of frictional energy loss along with a series of experimental efficiency measurements in derailleur-type chain-drive systems under a range of power, speed and lubrication conditions compared to compared to infrared measurements performed during drive operation showing the heating of drive components resulting from frictional losses. The results, not surprisingly, show that chain tension and sprocket size primarily determine chain-drive efficiency.
From the article :"It was found that the efficiency varied linearly with the reciprocal of the average chain tension with the highest efficiencies occurring at high chain tensions and lowest at low chain tensions. For example, the highest efficiency measured in the study, 98.6%, was measured at a chain tension of 305 N and the lowest, 80.9%, at 76.2 N."
I'm sorry, but descending into insults is not a very persuasive form of arguement. I'm not sure I'd mind so much if comments such as the above were not, demonstrably, so completely and absolutely wrong !.
Posted: 09/02/2008 08:29
I'm sorry, but descending into insults is not a very persuasive form of arguement. I'm not sure I'd mind so much if comments such as the above were not, demonstrably, so completely and absolutely wrong !.
Oh really?,
I would not question the findings in the study above.
They do not however, support your statement.
This study examines relative efficiency, high versus low tension within a chain drive, the conclusion is that higher tensions are more efficient than low.
A case of optimum rather than maximum.
Running chain transmissions at a very high tension is a different kettle of fish altogether.
Your Statement -
"Secondly, on a proper fixie you run 1/8th" track chain with a perfect chain line really really tight".
School boy mythology this is - just the sort of thing we told each other as enthusiastic schoolboy engineers, along with our passion for drilling loads of holes in cycle components.... HeHe.
Very high tension, is a no no, it's inefficient, furthermore all components within a transmission thus subjected will wear at warp speed.
Any engineer will tell you that you are wrong.
Many years working for a Consultancy whose brief was to design and build special purpose machines for the Aerospace and Nuclear industries may have given me a bit of an insight as to, what in engineering terms is best practice...
We may talk like farmers here in Bristle, We may drink too much Cider, But we are good at designing and making stuff. I reckon we could even make bikes. Blige!
Insults - Quite frankly people with your attitude are fair game!
Posted: 09/02/2008 13:18
!-- @page { size: 8.5in 11in; margin: 0.79in } P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } --> This is all going somewhat off-topic, but it is, IMHO, its a rather interesting off-topic. Hopefully it should be possible to have a civilized debate... Anyway, Engineering. Well, if you study the engineering involved in the increase in chain drive efficiency seen with a fixed-gear set up you will discover (at least) six factors to be in operation: i. Chain-line. Generally straighter. With modern chains probably not very influential. ii. Sprocket size. Generally larger. Moderately influential. iii. Chain length. Generally lower. This lessens chordal effects. Moderately influential. iv. Chain width. Generally higher. 1/8" vs 3/32" chain again lessens chordal effects. Probably moderately influential. v. Chain tension. Generally higher. Highly influential (more so that sprocket size) vi. Fly-wheel momentum. Much higher. Highly influential (especially on the flat, depends size of non-power proportion of pedal stroke, which is less when climbing on fixed). Wear issues are very complicated. To be honest I don't know of any good studies addressing this directly. Do you ?. I would expect that with increased chain tension there would be a variety of factors acting in different direction, including: i. Increased friction. Contrary to what has been suggested this should not be very significant in the everyday chain-tension range (upto 300Nm) as friction accounts for only a few percent of the losses seen in a chain drive (the rest being mechanical losses that are not converted into thermal losses). ii. Reduced chain chordal effects. Would be expected to reduce wear. May be very significant in wear at the chain bushing / inner-link interface. iii. Increased torque on hub. (Due to generally larger gears on fixed). Would be expected to increase wear. iv. Increased sprocket size. Larger sprockets should wear less quickly. v. Reduced chain length. Shorter chains wear more quickly.
Posted: 09/02/2008 14:43
hey, if your asshole is ruined try anusol heamhorroid cream: http://www.shopinprivate.com/anhemoin1ozt.html
Posted: 09/02/2008 20:55
Miles J, It certainly has been an interesting thread.
Before this model came about a lot of research was done and a fair few mock-up samples were made, most with rear facing dropouts. I come from a track racing background and there is nothing I like more than the sound of a singlespeed whirring on the velodrome. It does not matter whether you use 1/8" or 3/32", that is down to personal preference. Making the chain very tight is no good for man or machine, end of story.
As I said, most of the first samples had rear facing dropouts which we found to be very difficult to use when one had a puncture with mudguards(the idea of this model came from research and feedback from our many staff and customers who were willing to share their thoughts)
This bike had to be long lasting, comfortable, take up to 28mm tyres with guards or 32mm without, simple(singlespeed, it had to have rack and guard capabilities and most important of all it had to ride like a dream while keeping within the same price point as the Pista model.
All was working well apart from the guards/puncture situation despite modifying guards so they could be removed easily as this was very time consuming and we wanted something that took the hassle away. The last thing you want on the way to work when you have a puncture is to have to fiddle about with your guards.
After discussing it in depth with our tester, customers and displaying at the London show it was clear we had to change the dropout to allow ease of wheel removal.
It is quite simple really, we looked back to when fixed and singlespeed was the norm, before the time of Mr.Campagnolo, Simplex etc revoloutionized road bikes with gears. Te majority of bikes back in the early years had long forward facing dropouts with mudguard capabilities so we set about finding some dropouts to try.
We found some, they work a treat, everyone who buys a Tempo likes the idea, there has never been a complaint, I have never heard of anyone pulling a wheel to one side let alone having a wheel come out of the bike apart from maybe poor maintanence. Having your chain done up too tight would not help, but if the track nuts are done up sufficiently there should never be a problem. You don't need to tighten the nuts up excessivly either, I see many bikes where they are done up a lot tighter than needed.
In many years of racing on the track at all levels and having dealt with many riders from schoolboy to International level I honestly can't remember a time where anyone pulled a wheel over in competition where, if anywhere, you expect this to happen.
So with all of this I really don't understand what your beef is. It is good to provoke conversation and use the forum to help build understanding of the sport/activity, but isn't it about time you just got out and enjoyed the fresh air while riding your bike instead, after all isn't that what it's all about?
Posted: 14/02/2008 08:14
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