Ultegra 10 Speed on Mavic Open Pro
No frills wheels that do the job and well
Posted: 23 July 2008
by Richard Hallett
Whenever the subject of wheel choice comes up, there is considerable support for what is generally called the ‘hand built’ wheel set as distinct from the ‘factory built’ pair. In practice, ‘hand built’ means ‘built using readily and separately available rims, hubs and spokes by someone not working in a wheel factory’, which in turn means anyone from the guy down the local bike shop to one of the small number of specialist builders who make their living turning out bespoke hoops.
These wheels have been built by the reviewer as representative of the kind of bog-standard assembly anyone with a spoke key, a wheel jig and sufficient skill and enthusiasm might put together. Mavic’s excellent Open Pro rims meet DT Competition double-butted stainless steel spokes with standard brass nipples and roll on Shimano Ultegra 10 speed hubs. All-up weight minus skewers is around the 1700g mark, the exact mass of such a build depending, of course, on spoke count front and rear. Here we have 28 spokes at the front and 32 rear crossing three times in both cases. Component cost is around £210.00; build ‘em yourself and that is the total price.
Given the undoubted quality of the various parts, the initial build was entirely trouble free. Using the DT Swiss spoke chart is simplicity itself and, provided initial measurements are done accurately, provides spot-on answers. The test of this comes with completion of the wheel; each spoke tip should lie between the top and bottom of the nipple’s screwdriver slot. Bang on.
The performance of any such wheel pairing depends to a very large extent on the skill of the builder, so there’s not much point in commenting on many aspects in this review since they will not necessarily be replicated by similar wheels by another builder. However, some aspects are worth noting. The rear hub has a steel freehub body that will work with any Shimano eight-, nine- or 10-speed cassette. The 28/32 spoke count saves a little weight and air drag over the more usual 32/32 combo without losing out on durability unless the wheels are to be used for laden touring. The 28 spoke front rides very nicely built three-cross and can be recommended for a rider up to perhaps 85 kg. For a rider of up to 75kg, the same count might be tried at the rear unless longevity is a major consideration.
A comparison can be made between these and Shimano’s WH-6600 wheels, which weigh about the same despite having an aluminium high-spline freehub body. The 6600s feel a little faster thanks no doubt to fewer, bladed spokes and a semi-deep rim section. The same low spoke count and associated high tension means that, should a spoke ‘go’, the wheel will immediately go far enough out of true to hinder riding. The hand built pair, on the other hand, is not only ‘softer’ sprung, with a more comfortable ride, but less likely to leave the rider in the lurch in the event of spoke breakage. It is also easy to repair should a rim wear through or receive a ‘ding’ and, if rider experience is anything to go by, is likely to last a lot longer if used to carry any kind of luggage. So, for speed, factory built is surely the answer. Otherwise, try handbuilts and enjoy the sensation of comfort, longevity and ease of maintenance.
Discuss this story
I was so impressed with a set that Parker International built me that I decided to have a go myself. I followed the instructions on Sheldon Brown's site and found it quite straight forward. They've clocked up 700 miles without needing any attention. If you're mechanically minded, it's well worth a go.
Posted: 24/07/2008 09:36
Building wheels can be addictive - when you're satisfied with your own ability; I would recommend it to anybody, although it isn't necessarily cheaper overall. There is also a certain satisfaction when riding them and, for me, a confidence in the reliability of the wheel - or at least the ability to carry out repairs if on a long distance tour etc. I have 3 sets of wheels using Open Pros, all with different hubs - and I just think they are timeless classics: comfortable, reliable and dependable. I am just about to change the sealed bearing kit, pawls and springs on a rear Hope hub I built some time ago, and I just know it will last me for many years to come!!
Posted: 24/07/2008 16:19
Hoops it is, then... Once you are into building your own wheels it is certainly more convenient than getting them built elsewhere, as is repair if needed. The skills also transfer to factory-built wheels; I have rebuilt several Shimano ones with the hub-mounted nipples that might otherwise have been thrown out.
Posted: 24/07/2008 17:00
According to the Jobst Brandt wheel book (which used to be the definitive work on the subject but maybe has been superseded?) double butted is good. Unbutted spokes may give a stiffer wheel but as they're thicker, they're stretched less than thinner spokes at the max tension that the rim can support. So when the rim is pushed inwards over a bump they will untension more easily and allow nipple to unwind. All on a microscopic scale but it builds up. Having more spokes also distributes loads over a number of them, reducing max loads, increasing life. But there's a trade off . More spokes = more wind resistance maybe. Thick spokes keep the wheel truer if one breaks. Mine's the anal old git coat.
Posted: 25/07/2008 13:30
According to the Jobst Brandt wheel book (which used to be the definitive work on the subject but maybe has been superseded?) double butted is good. Unbutted spokes may give a stiffer wheel but as they're thicker, they're stretched less than thinner spokes at the max tension that the rim can support. So when the rim is pushed inwards over a bump they will untension more easily and allow nipple to unwind. All on a microscopic scale but it builds up.
Saying much the same as my post above. Basically thinner spokes store more elastic energy at the 'max tension the rim will support' and can spring back further when unloaded by a bump. More important of course is skilled finishing including the removal of any residual curve in any spoke to prevent fatigue.
Posted: 25/07/2008 15:34
Yes Richard, just agreeing  With ironic timing, thought I'd broken a spoke last night as sudden ding, ding, ding as I rolled out of a junction. Relieved to find only rubbish v2c sender mount had loosened and slipped towards wheel. But annoyed at such a useless bit of kit. It's also the 'skilled finishing' bit that puts me off.... How long to make pair of wheels for a beginner?
Posted: 26/07/2008 09:57
'Wind up' is likely to be felt in any rear wheel that hasn't had the 'residual curve' latent in a spoke pressed out. Basically, the spoke is being pulled straight by the tension in it. A useful analogy is with the slack or catenary in a rope attached at one end and pulled horizontally. No matter how hard you pull, it will always have a bit of sag due to the pull of gravity along its length. However, a strong enough pull will get it almost straight, and an even stronger pull will straighten it further just as the extra pull on a residually curved spoke created by pedalling force will make it and its fellows straighten, producing that familiar soggy feel. Compare this to what happens with a rope hanging vertically, which has no sag to take up with the application of additional pulling force. Any additional weight applied will stretch the rope, for sure, but only in accordance with its elasticity and the increase in the distance between the points where pull is applied with be negligible in comparison. The same is true of spokes that have been finished by pressing them early in the build to remove any 'residual curve' and by 'setting' them hard against the hub flanges using a hammer and drift. Not only does these measures prevent 'wind up', but they also remove the potential for the flex that leads to fatigue.
Posted: 28/07/2008 11:12
Indeed. Can't quite see the point of performance wheels for audax myself. You can be sure I use every last trick in the book on my own wheel builds short of using a spoke tension meter; I just get 'em very tight.....
Posted: 28/07/2008 14:26
It's also the 'skilled finishing' bit that puts me off.... How long to make pair of wheels for a beginner?
My first attempt took 2 hours for the back and just over an hour for the front. As for skilled finishing, attention to detail is the important thing. Understand the steps you have to perform, and also what you're trying to achieve by doing them and you'll be fine. There seems to be a lot of mystery surrounding wheel building. If you ask any club cyclist over 40 they will probably insist that you should go to some legendary hermit with a beard who builds the finest in the land. This may very well be true, but it doesn't mean that you can't build a perfectly decent set yourself. In any case, if you do cock it up, you can always get man with beard to sort it out for you.
Posted: 28/07/2008 14:30
There are quite a few chaps out there that build custom wheels (if you wnat and are ready to pay sth "bling", i.e. sth different to common rims+hubs) and send then anywhere in the world. I have had a good experience with a frenchman named Adrien, who has a beautiful webpage: www.rouesartisanales.com Also was interesting to get in touch with a norhtamerican whose name I do not remember, his website was www.whitemountainwheels.com And at the states´ forums people mention often a chap named Joe Young, he also has an interesting webpage about the art of wheelbuilding. I got all those possibilities googling "hand made wheels" and enjoyed it a lot. However the chap at my LBS builds my wheels (last ones campy record hubs 2006 model, ie the silver ones, do not like the current black ones +silver mavic open pros+chorus sprocket+32 DT competition 2/1.8 spokes), and he builds them ever so cheap and well ... Some day I would like to have a pair of wheels built with chris king hubs, it is said they are very good, but only shimano compatible, even though there are a brand of sprockets that theoretically fit and work well have never quite decided on the topic, wonder if anybody out there has any experience with that.
Posted: 28/07/2008 16:11
As for the term 'Campy', that is quite unconscionable. However the chap at my LBS builds my wheels (last ones campy record hubs 2006 model,
I know Angel's just teasing but it's enough to make one choke on one's beer, what?!
Posted: 28/07/2008 23:08
Some day I would like to have a pair of wheels built with chris king hubs, it is said they are very good, but only shimano compatible, even though there are a brand of sprockets that theoretically fit and work well have never quite decided on the topic, wonder if anybody out there has any experience with that.
I suggest you get a set from ebay USA and build them up with the right kit. You will not regret it! They are a dream on my mtb, which runs Sapim CX Ray spokes and Mavic rims on a set of 32h Kings. Fast, light, strong and eminently serviceable. It was as a result of my experiences with these I bought a set of 28h ones for the racer. Today I finally managed to get hold of a specific length of Sapim CX Ray spokes to go with the 400g Velocity Aerohead rims and I can't wait to try them out!
Posted: 28/07/2008 23:39
Don't worry Angel.... there's nothing wrong with your contribution. Martin H pointed out that saying 'Campy' for Campagnolo is frowned on in the UK where we tend to prefer 'Campag', only for you to use 'Campy', which is of course popular in the US, in your next post...
Posted: 29/07/2008 14:47
In My Opinion... Feel free to ask anytime.
Posted: 29/07/2008 16:45
Back to wheels - you mention in the article that you reckon a 28 spoke front would be ok for a rider up to around 85kg - so what would you recommend for a rider closer to the 100kg (15st in old money) mark? I ask, because I'm currently looking for a new bike in the £800 - £1000 mark, and they all seem to have scarily few spokes... I anticipate having to take them straight off without even riding them!
Posted: 02/08/2008 17:19
Thanks Richard, That was my gut feeling (no pun intended) I have 32/32 at the moment which have held up very well - they're planet X A537 rims on a PX front hub and whatever rear hub the lbs put on when my old one conked out!! Built by AW Cycles in Reading, and haven't noticed any real play. May see if the lbs will switch, if not may be a case of selling them straight on... Thanks.
Posted: 11/08/2008 14:24
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